For my Part C review I was not able to go to an event due to the pandemic causing companies to close live events and shows, however I was allowed to choose an event to view online so my first thought was the Moschino Fall/Winter 2016 Fashion Show which was two entire runway events put into one. I originally saw this runway around two months ago (specifically March 12th) which I stumbled across on YouTube whilst watching a runway collection from the Popular Italian Fashion Company Valentino and much like the Haute Couture 2019 Runway they presented, Jeremy Scott takes the concept and inspiration of the runway category being a burning ballroom and puts these elements into the set design which brings architecture design and fashion together in the same runway.
This Fashion show was directed and created by American Fashion Designer Jeremy Scott who has worked for other big brand names such as Adidas, he built the idea for a set being focused on the abstract view of furniture found in a classy and wealthy household such as fallen chandeliers, upright pianos and even a giant Picture frame for the models to walk through. The runway was split into two different categories, one being inspired by the quote “Good girls go to heaven, but bad girls go everywhere” with all the models decked out in leather jackets and caps with the words “Warriors” placed around the front pushing the biker aesthetic, and of course the second collection of looks known as “The Burning Ballroom” displaying the models wearing classy evening wear with burn marks and ragged cutouts circling around the dresses.
In the first category Jeremy had frequent critiques that he “declared war against virtues of self-expression” therefore these models that came out in Black leather with Chains and the frequent use of ‘Warriors’ used in the garments was a sign that these were his Girl Gang that were ready to fight back the hatred and negative critiques, the way that all of these 38 looks from the first category share something in common which is the use of black leather caps and leather used as skirts, corsetry or even capes gave me as a viewer the message that these are strong women who have stepped out onto the stage to prove a point that they are just as spectacular as everyone else. Though the message for the looks was very grungy and aiming at a punk rock aesthetic the use of the satin material used over the leather in multiple colors and silhouettes also adds a very modest and classy element as if the looks have a variation of meanings and that by looking at them you can interpret the message in many ways, and as more of these looks from this category step out onto the runway we get a more enhanced idea that the concept of punk rock leather gradually travels into the second runway theme representing expensive evening wear but also stays true to its brand identity with the Black Leather caps, Gold chained chokers and chain covered bags and of course leather incorporated into the look somewhere maybe even on the shoes to display protection for the person that is wearing it.
There were several many individual looks that I loved from this runway category such as Look 1 worn by model Lexi Boling who was wearing a Black leather Jacket extended down to the floor sealed near her left shoulder with a gold zipper placed perfectly showing her leg as if the dress has a slit on the side, this look really set the bar for this runway as it has a side of rock mixed with everyday fashion trends taken to the next level by taking the look from a leather jacket to an entire coat dress with a slit down the side. It is perfectly well accessorized and detailed across the look from the red leather lining in the Jacket, the custom Moschino boots that match the Moschino cap and the statement piece jewelry in gold matching the zips on the jacket.
Another One of my favorites from this runway category had to be Look 21 worn by the Iconic Anne Cleveland who was wearing a black velvet fitted gown with a train hanging from the back of her waist and covered in chains to create the illusion of a skeleton’s body walking down the runway, this to me was exquisite because the use of the various chains hanging from multiple parts of the dress was so Ingenius and well put together that it pushed the category into a gothic direction with how menacing the movement and overall appearance of the chains were played out. It was accessorized with a chain necklace to sit between the chains on the dress, black goggles to push the look into a steam punk aesthetic and matching pearl earrings with the chains.
The second category started when Look 39 came through the giant picture frame and walked down the runway in a tuxedo with burnt details on the trouser legs, sleeves on the jacket and the bottom of the jacket, this runway was represented by the saying ‘Smoking Kills’ in which Jeremy Scott to play with this concept by including burn marks and charred marks on each individual look to push the concept of a Burnt Ballroom and make a statement that ‘Fashion Kills’. I was so excited to see this part of the runway because when the models starting walking out onto the runway they all easily connected well with the set design around them with smashed pianos and baroque seating as if the models have stepped out of a mansion filled with fire, chaos and fashion, each look had a distinct concept of classy evening wear in multiple silhouettes that still fitted the theme whilst also sharing accessories that link back to the statement ‘smoking kills’ as some of the models walked out with cigarette earrings in order to drive the message home whilst still making the looks very editorial.
There were so many looks that really stood out to me from this runway category but one of my favorites definitely had to be Look 44 worn by Model Kate Grigorieva who was wearing a Black corseted Mermaid Gown with a Bell-shaped skirt filled with white tulle fabric, this to me was such a Flawless look because this is one of the looks that really took the concept and elaborated it by placing burns and holes all across the dress and though she was walking slowly she showed a sense of power in her face and her casual movement as if she held herself together knowing she is the moment walking down the runway. This look is accessorized very well with black burnt elbow length gloves with a ring placed over it and the headpiece she wore as a veil was also in the shape of a flickering flame that was such a great idea paired with the white tulle flowing out of the skirt as if she was like a burnt melting candle walking down the runway, the attention to details with the distressed burn marks placed on the tulle and over the boddess of the dress burning through to show the corsetry underneath was a nice touch that fit the theme and the many other details in this look made this such an immaculate look.
Though there were many iconic looks on this runway there was no look as Iconic as Look 50 worn by Dutch model Sanne Vloet wearing a slim black sleeveless gown with a straight across cut and a giant chandelier placed over the dress attached and moving all around her waist, this really was the best look on the runway in my opinion as the look represents an inanimate object placed on a dress to represent the visual beauty of the chandelier with all the jewels practically dripping from the dress and twinkling against the reflection the camera lenses as everyone stood up and took pictures of this look. There isn’t any accessories on this look apart from the slight charred burn marks at the trim of the dress but to me it doesn’t need any accessories to fill in the gaps because the look itself with the chandelier alone is the full statement piece package which is already filled with drama from its size filling the entire width of the runway to all the individually stoned candelabras just oozing with stones of Wealth and Power, this look is so Iconic that this has actually gone on to inspire Katy Perry’s 2019 Met Gala look which was a rhinestone cocktail dress with a giant Chandelier around also created by Jeremy Scott displaying that this look has a very abstract meaning that we have never seen before.
This runway overall was such a sensational experience to watch as every look took inspiration from modern day scenes of the outside world and applied these elements in a very Avant Garde way, I learned from this that the art of fashion trends and authenticity in what you wear is a very important statement to make and that using clothing like leather Jackets, boots and caps it can display a sense of power and courage within oneself as if what you wear and how you present yourself can defeat all the negativity and the stigma that people may throw your way. I also learned that the quote ‘smoking kills’ is a very important message that can easily be ignored or turned away from but using this concept to make couture fashion possibly pushes the idea into an alternate reality of thinking, almost as if the clothing stands out by turning people’s attention towards the look and making them think on a different level when they see the idea of cigarette earrings or fascinated used as a message without words.